The reason for the
longer, 3-banded muskets is directly related to safety requirements within the
Euroarms® and Armi-Sport® are the two main acceptable suppliers. Stay away from
other brands until you have verified with other experienced reenactors that they
are safe and acceptable. At $425 and up, this is the single largest expense
of the infantry impression. You don't want to make a mistake here. Also, you
will NEVER be using live ammunition in your musket, unless you are retiring it
At $425 and up, this is the single largest expense of the infantry impression. You don't want to make a mistake here. Also, you will NEVER be using live ammunition in your musket, unless you are retiring it from reenacting.
1. Enfield, model 1853, .58 cal. – popular and available on both sides. Lightest weapon, and very few problems.
2. Springfield, model 1861, .58 cal. – popular and available on both sides. Some misfires due to the vent hole to the priming cone. Also, the half cock position is historically short – making it difficult for chubbier fingers to prime the musket.
3. Springfield, model 1842, .69
cal. – considered to be more for early war, but good for the entire war.
There are many other musket options,
but are recommended for more specific, and sometimes more financially demanding
impressions. Original weapons are not recommended due to value and safety
Original weapons are not recommended due to value and safety issues.
Bayonet & Scabbard. To MATCH THE
RIFLE, and must sometimes be hand fitted. The actual use of a bayonet is
limited, and mostly for “flash” in marching and stacking arms. There is no
particular need to buy the most expensive versions available.
Cartridge Box & Sling, black leather. To MATCH RIFLE CALIBER. Enfield has its own style box (sometimes with white sling), is easier access and smaller. However, the standard .58 cal. box was more prevalent.
Cap Pouch, black leather, with
sheep’s wool liner. Most have fake “fur,” despite any claims – and it is often
too short to keep caps in the box. If fake, acquire a deep section of real
sheep’s wool and replace the fake stuff.
Haversack, black tarred canvas. Avoid thin, glossy, plastic looking haversacks. This is used to carry food, and possibly a few extras like...
Tin Plate and Spoon. A pocket knife
is helpful. A fork can be most useful for cooking.
Cup, Mucket, Peach-can. Tinned
steel or copper. Each imparts its own unique flavor to your beverage. Acidic
drinks (soda, beer, juices) should only be used in a tin. Acids react with
copper, and can be poisonous unless tin lined. Copper also transfers the heat of
hot coffee like a live wire.
Cup, Mucket, Peach-can. Tinned steel or copper. Each imparts its own unique flavor to your beverage. Acidic drinks (soda, beer, juices) should only be used in a tin. Acids react with copper, and can be poisonous unless tin lined. Copper also transfers the heat of hot coffee like a live wire.
Canteen, smooth or bulls-eye, with cloth cover. As the canteen is covered, Stainless Steel is highly recommended. It must have a pewter spout. The cloth cover can be surplus fabric from sack coats, sky blue pants, or jean wool. The cork chain will snag on everything - buttons, twigs, equipment, etc. Remove the chain from the cork – use hemp string, cotton twine, or leather to retain connection of the cork to the canteen. The strap is more often of cotton (not webbing), but leather is also acceptable. Canteens with a chain were only issued from the New York Depot. Our unit was not supplied by New York.
Black Powder (NOT Pyrodex® or any other modern powders). 60 grains of 3X or 4X powder, loaded in paper roles is sufficient and safe.
Percussion Caps. Only quality
4-wing caps should be used. The
high-power six wing caps are excessively loud, and tend to shatter and splatter
the fellow reenactor to your right. If you use these caps, be confident you can
take, or out run the guy to your right.
Poncho/Tarred or Oil Cloth. Wrap yourself in it, sleep on it, or sleep under it. The infantry version you just wrap around yourself and hold or tie it closed. The cavalry version has a whole in the middle for your head. Few are going to argue which is most correct while it's raining.
Tent. 1. Dog Tent (two shelter halves). As the name implies, most suitable for your dog - if you don't like him much. The grunt's basic gear for campaign style reenacting. Technically intended for at least two soldiers. Can be used as a ground cloth or to build a shebang. Some reenactors will actually go without a tent rather than use these - really!
2. A-Frame. 6 to 7 feet tall, 7 to 9 feet long. Preferred for garrison style (It's actually just preferred - period). The most prevalent tent in use.
3. Wall tent. Intended more for officers and some sergeants who have plenty of privates to set them up. The closest thing to a brick and mortar hotel. Large, cumbersome, work intensive to set up/take down. Often used by families.